Techniques in Home Winemaking is a resource for home winemakers looking for information or help on making great wines, including troubleshooting winemaking problems, and to share that knowledge with fellow winemakers. This resource is based and builds on my book by the same title and my newly released book titled Modern Home Winemaking, which has been updated to reflect the newest techniques and products for making outstanding wines.
Much of my experience is derived from extensive literature search as well as from my experience both as a home and a commercial winemaker.
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Thanks Daniel.. I was reading about malolactic fermentation in your book and had a question. I inoculated my Cab/Merlot blend after the alcoholic fermentation with Lalvin MBR31. This was 3 days ago. Can you tell me how long it takes for the malolactic fermentation to start? The temperature where the wine is stored is 17 deg. C.. I don’t know what the S02 level is.
17C is borderline. The bacteria need at least 18C, so crank up the temp up to 20C. It should start fairly rapidly, depending on wine chemistry, if the temp is favorable. Knowing SO2 level is critical, or at least knowing how much you added so you can get some confidence if you’ll have a problem or not.
It’s going to be difficult to crank up the temperature to 20C. The wine is in a built-in garage where the temperature never goes below 5C in the winter. I also think the S02 is about 20 ppm. I may just wait until spring/summer for the temperature to get back to 20C plus. So I will do the cold stabilization first. Do you think I will need to re-inoculate in the spring?
Do you not have a space heater you can use for a short time until the MLF is done? Waiting until the spring/summer is dangerous as you cannot really add too much SO2 now as you don’t want a problem getting the MLF going then. Usually, you get the MLF going and completed ASAP after the alcoholic fermentation, and when it’s done, you add SO2 to inhibit further bacteria action.
Thanks for the quick response Daniel. I had brought a jug of the wine inside near the furnace room where the temperature is 24C two days ago and there is still no sign of MLF there either. I am wondering if S02 is the problem. I assumed that most of the 0.75 tsp I added to the 250 lbs. of grapes would dissipate during alcoholic fermentation. I added another 0.2 tsp at the first racking which was 11 days after pressing along with the hydrated MLF culture and gelatine finings. I had issues with white film in the past, so I was worried about not having enough S02. I have ordered an S02 measuring kit to make sure, but I would estimate the total S02 to be around 17 ppm assuming that the initial dose at crush was gone. According to the manufacturers, the MLF culture is tolerant to total S02 of 45ppm and temperature as low as 13C but is a slow starter. Would MLF nutrients be helpful at this stage? Stirring the lees or aerating?
Thanks.
Think of wine as a car and MLF as performance. The car runs much more efficiently at warmer temperatures; it will struggle at very cold temperatures though it’ll still run. So any conditions that are antagonistic to the bacteria can cause a sluggish or even a stuck MLF. The major one are pH, SO2, temperature & alcohol. Some bacteria are sensitive to total SO2, not just free SO2, so it’s important to know who much sulfite has been added. From your numbers it seems you did not add too much, though I don’t know who you measure 0.2 of a tsp. So yes, adding nutrients (which is always recommended) is a good idea. Stirring the lees too, but no aeration (some bacteria don’t like oxygen).
Thanks Daniel. These are good suggestions. As for the .2 tsp, I estimated using a 1/4 tsp measuring spoon.
Hi Daniel. I am planning to go to Scott Labs to pick up the MLF nutrients. I am considering purchasing a different MLF bacteria (Lalvin PN4), which is even more SO2 tolerant along with the MLF nutrients. Will having two different MLF cultures be bad for the wine in any way? I still don’t see any C02 bubbles rising to the top in the jug of wine that is stored at 24C or can MLF still take place without the visible C02? I’m not sure of the wine’s pH although the TA was around 0.7, the alcohol is likely to be around 13% . I tried to check S02 with Titrets, but they are not recommended for red wines. I got a reading of 90 ppm, which is really suspect and I would be able to smell that level of sulphur. Thanks.
Yeah, Titrets don’t work for reds. The manufacturer not labels the product as “for white wines only.” The bacteria used for MLF generates CO@, so you should see bubbles. But some indigenous bacteria that also convert malic acid do not necessarily generate CO2. I think you should invest in a paper chromatography kit and assess whether there is any malic acid in your wine. Maybe it’s already been converted; doubtful but possible. You should run a test before you inoculate again, just to be sure. Don’t sound like SO2 is a problem, and everything looks ok.
In a recent Winemaker Magazine article you mentioned “try adding gum arabic for added mouthfeel…” I have been unsuccessful in securing this product despite contacting several suppliers. Can you tell me more about what it is and where I might obtain?
I use gum arabic for added mouthfeel, but it has many other beneficial properties, such as acting as a protective colloid. I did 3 searches and found it at all 3 …
http://morewinemaking.com/products/liquigum.html?site_id=5
http://www.piwine.com/gum-arabic-20-percent-lga20-wine-clarifier-liquid-4-oz.html
http://vinestovintages.ca/catalogue/fining-agents-additions/
Look for StabiVin in the last one.
Hi Daniel. I read all about the different fining agents in your book. Just had one question. I made a Sauv Blanc from Central Valley juice. I suspect that these juices are processed by a heavy pressing of the grapes which would add bitterness and astringency to the wine. What would be the best agent to use to reduce those characteristics? Thx.
Hi Vince.
Did you taste the wine? Unless there is bitterness and astringency, I wouldn’t do anything other than a normal bentonite fining as usual. I’d be surprised if it is bitter and astringent. If it is, you can try a PVPP fining — it’s quick — or try a proteinaneous agent, e.g. gelatin. Make sure you perform trials to determine the rate of addition to get your desired results. Another idea is to use gum arabic.
Hi Daniel,
I did invest in a chromatography kit and checked the Cab/Merlot. At the moment it shows a presence of malic acid as well as lactic acid. Is it reasonable to conclude that MLF is in progress- or does lactic acid occur naturally in grapes? Thanks.
Hi Vince,
If you have a lactic spot it means MLF in happily in progress. As soon as the malic spot disappears, sulfite the wine.
I was recently reading that sodium metabisulfite should be used strictly for sanitizing equipment and should never be added to wine. Only potassium metabisulfite is acceptable for adding to wine. Why is that and what dangers lurk for me to drink the wine in which I introduced the wrong meta?
Sodium metabisulfite is ok if not used excessively. Personally, I prefer to always use the potassium form, simply to minimize the amount of sodium added to wine. Excessive sodium intake is not healthy.
Daniel I have been using your sulfite calculator for several years. My computer just crashed and I went to load your new version on and I see it no longer gives the recommended ppm based off ph. Is this something that is going to change? When I looked up an older version everything worked until it gave out the dosage that was way too high. Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Dan,
The calculator has been re-written in Java to solve some problems with the older implementation. The functionality is all the same, nothing has changed there.
If you enter a desired free SO2 level that’s exactly what the calculator recommends for the pH you entered, then the calculator does not display that recommended free SO2. So if you entered a desired level of 25 mg/L (ppm) with no recommendations, if you then enter 26 mg/L for the same pH, for example, the calculator will recommend a level of 25 mg/L.
Hope this helps.
Daniel
Thank you Daniel. Yes that did help. Of all the calculators out there this is the one I use at least three times a week. Thank you for sharing it.
Hello Daniel. I did a bench test on the Sauvignon Blanc for Bentonite. I find that the bottom of the jug has a light fluffy layer of residue after 4 days. If I were to rack it, I would loose a considerable amount of wine. Is there a better fining agent for white wine that provides a firm compact lees layer?
I also wanted to ask about oak alternatives. I have used toasted oak chips in the past. I found that they give the wine a wood taste which is nowhere near the nice vanilla taste you get from a commercial wine that has been aged in oak barrels. Is there another oak alternative that better approximates the commercial wines?
Vince,
You’ll always get some loss, sure, some more than with other fining agents. Bentonite is the standard in commercial winemaking. If you let it settle properly (4 days is not enough), the lees should compact fairly well. You can try silica counterfined with gelatin.
Good quality chips (read, $$$) will give nice aromas and flavors. You can try cubes or staves.
Daniel
I purchased oak chips for $14 a kilo from a supplier in the Niagara area. Not sure if you would consider these good quality or not. Do you have a specific brand or supplier of chips, cubes or staves that you like?
Seems about right. There are many brands. I’ve tried several with good results. Freshness is important, so buy from a supplier with quick turnover of inventory.
I have kept my red wine on the fine lees for 12 months. What are the risks I am taking. How to counter.
I have done batonage a few times.
You have to stir regularly, otherwise, you might get hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell).
Does the hydrogen sulfide show as VA.
I am asking because the VA is still quite healthy.
No, H2S does not contribute to VA.
Most of the wine makers in the Hemel & Aarde Valley, who make internationally acclaimed wine, recommend Cross flow filtration before bottling. Your opinion please.
John Dry
It depends what you want to do. X-flow filtration can be used in a number of applications.
I want to sterile filter the wine without loosing any flavour or character
Then go for it.
I’m Canadian. I am presently on colombia south america. I searched here in colombia south america kits wines from concentrates as in Canada and I have not been able to find it. Do you know where to buy or at who to buy here in colombia south america kits wines from concentrates?
I don’t live in Columbia, so I don’t know. Your best bet is to contact wine kit manufacturers (e.g. Winexpert, RJ Spagnols, Vineco, Mosti Mondiale, etc.) directly to see who distributes in Columbia.
Daniel.I am going to make one barrel of Cab frank for a friend.
He has read an article about using old barrels and whole bunch fermentation.Local advice i have gotten from a Cab frank expert is to avoid any stems and make sure grapes are well ripened.The opinion being that Cab frank, like Merlot is suceptable to green tanins.
Your opinion please
First, old barrels do nothing to/for wine as they are “neutral,” i.e. they no longer impart any oak aromas and the many other compounds in new oak wood. Second, grapes must always be ripened, of course. I think what was meant to be said is that the stems must be well ripened. Green stems impart harsh tannins. Personally, I remove all stems. Some folks like to add back, for example, 10% of the stems (after destemming). All varietals are “susceptible to green tannins.” In the case of Cabs, Merlot, there is the added danger that the wines already taste green if harvested too early or from a poor vintage. These varietals contain methoxypyrazines that give wines a green character but which disappear when the grapes are left to ripen properly.
Hello Daniel,
I posted a link to your “Benchmarking of SO2 Analysis Instruments” accrediting you on my website. I hope that is ok with you and I would like to know how to contact you privately via email.
It appears that I am on a similar path as you with helping others make “Quality Wine” and I’m also a Southeast Distributor for Vinmetrica WineTesting equipment.
I look forward to hearing from you soon.
Cheers…Thomas Daniel Minarelli
Cell# 828-777-9501
Yes, thank you.
Hi Daniel.
Your opinion on the Oak ( Tanin ) powder that one ads to wine when you can not afford barrels.
Similar to staves or chips.
John
John,
The results can be dramatically different among the various forms on oak alternative products. Most important is the surface area (and volume) of the product you use. Powder will impart much more aromas and flavors much faster than staves. End grain also makes a big difference in the type of compounds extracted. And then, there is toasting. Powder is most often not toasted, so you would need to toast it yourself (easy enough).
Hello Again Daniel,
I usually have at least 5 Oak barrels at a time aging my red wines. I have also used American and French Oak Infusion Spirals after my barrels are ~ one year old or used 2 times to get a third batch out of them with decent tannin. I also use Infusion Spirals in Glass Car Boys using 1 spiral per 3 gallons of wine and I am very satisfied with the pre-oak treatment before the wine goes into the oak barrels.
Question: I have some Light Toast” Infusion Spirals that I want to add more depth to. I assume that the “Toast Level” of Oak Infusion Spirals or other Oak Chips, Cubes, Staves or powder is adjusted in a Convection Oven? Do you know the “temperature and time” ranges to get the various levels of Oak toast levels?
Hi Tom,
Yes.
For toasting barrels, traditional barrel-makers still use an open fire, while most barrel alternative companies use convection heat or use a ceramic heating element. Ceramic heating elements are now also being used with barrels as they provide temperature control, uniform heating throughout the length of staves, reduced smoky flavors and almost no stave blistering from a burning fire.
There are generally three levels of toasting: “Light toast (LT)” indicates a toasting time of approximately 5 minutes, with a surface temperature between 120 and 180°C (248-356°F). “Medium toast (MT)” corresponds to a toasting time of approximately 10 minutes, producing a surface temperature of approximately 200°C (392°F). “Heavy toast (HT)” corresponds to a toasting time of more than 15 minutes, resulting in a surface temperature of approximately 230°C (446°F). Heavy toasting gives a marked burnt, toasty character, making the aroma different, but without any major faults. A “Medium Plus toast (MT+)” is now a common offering from barrel suppliers for those wanting a stringer oak character without the overly expression of heavy toast. The toast level can also be described by the charring depth: LT is 3–5 mm, MT is up to 5 mm, and HT is more than 5 mm.
Hope this helps.
Daniel
Cheers…Thomas Daniel Mincarelli!
Hi Daniel
Why can I not make Sauvignon Blanc the same way I make red wine. IE Verment on the skins after destemming, and then Remove skinns after fermentation. It is done successfully with Chenin. . What are the dangers involved.
John
Hi John,
Generally, it is not recommended to ferment whites on the skins. Maybe a short maceration for a few hours or up to a max of 24 hours might work. But this only works for certain varieties.
White winemaking is all about maximizing fruitiness and keeping the freshness of acidity. If you macerate and ferment on the skins, you will be extracting phenols which will make the acidity quite harsh.
Then, since you need to limit phenol extraction to the minimum, whites have very little phenols to protect them against oxidation.
Sauv Blanc is particularly sensitive to oxygen and definitely not a good candidate for maceration on the skins.
Although I don’t think Chenin Blanc will work either, it can benefit from a short maceration only because it is a variety with free terpenoids (what gives the wine all those wonderful aromas and flavors) in the skins, and so, the intent of a short maceration is to extract those compounds to the max.
In Sauv Blanc, the magic of aromas and flavors happens during fermentation by yeast but completely protected from air.
Daniel
Daniel.
I am cold aking Cab Frank.My TA is low 4.38 and Ph is high 3.59.
Malic acid is 1.44
I need to adjust the acidity.
Do I multiply 1.44 X .67 = .96
Adjust TA by subtracting the diffs – .5 thus expected TA will be 4.38 -.5 =3.88
I want TA to be 5.9 thus shortfall is 5.9-3.88=2
So i NEED TO ADD 2 GM /LIT Tartariq acid.
How much acid do I expect to be generated during alcoholic fermetation or does this vary per cultivar.
To be safe I am adding 1.5 gm / Lit now and will adjust after MLF.
For these calculations I assume I work on expected wine LITERS and not Kg of grapes
Is my reasoning sound.
John
John,
Yes, liters from now.
I assume you did measure malic acid correctly and that it is in fact expressed as malic acid.
1.4 g HM/L is approx 1.6 H2T/L; that’s the drop in TA you can expect after MLF. So if you want your TA to be 5.9 g/L, you need to add 5.9-4.4+1.6=3.1 g/L of tartaric acid.
Don’t worry about how much is generated during AF. Keep it simple; otherwise, you also need to factor in, for example, cold stabilization.
Remember though, use your taste to help you make decision and the numbers only to guide you.
Daniel
Daniel.
I have just destemmed 7 days ago. Added the required So2 and cooled down to 15 C for 3 days.
I am waiting for natural fermentation to start and then I will add Cultured yeast.It is now 7 days later and starting very slowly. Will innoculate tomorrow.
I was wondering what the risks are involved if I do not cool down the juice, the VA remains acceptable, I do punch down, keep covered with CO2 and temp is 19 C
Am I getting benifit from additional extraction before fermentation kicks in, even at room temp?.
John
John,
The main risks are a spontaneous fermentation by indigenous yeast, one capable of surviving the SO2, and bacterial activity. The relatively high temperature favors microbial activity.
Yes, you are getting the benefits of additional extraction, which is favored at higher temperatures, but the above risks are very high. Only techniques like thermovinification should be used; these are quick and effective and avoid the above risks.
Daniel
Daniel, you have written a lot of books regarding. Thanks for sharing it. Hope, I can make awesome wine at home maintaining the steps explained there.
Hi Daniel.
I dont understand why sponateous fermentation of the natural yeast should be a problem. Some winemakers use only natural yeast and see this as making a very special wine.
I have allways waited for natural ferment to start and then added my cultivated yeast.
Rajesh.
I have paid consultants, attended workshops and read a lot of other info. The book written by Daniel at the top of this page still remains my most comprehensive source for information.Not only the information itself, but the appropriate way in which it is presented so that a novice can understand the process.
John
John,
Unless you are a microbiologist and trained in identifying yeast strains, or if you are lucky enough to be making wine in Burgundy where you have had an established microflora for centuries, you are playing Russian roulette. You don’t know what yeast strain you are dealing with and therefore cannot predict the outcome. You also do not have repeatability of results from year to year. Sure, you can ferment with natural yeast without a problem, but the risk, in a worst case scenario, is that fermentation stops after reaching 3-5% alc and/or developing off-aromas and flavors. Many wild yeast strains just don’t possess the metabolic engine to completely convert sugar into alcohol.
I have made wines using indigenous yeast and got amazing results, and other times, well, quite disappointing.
The technique you are using can be quite ideal, but again, if you know you are not dealing with spoilage yeast. Starting the fermentation with wild yeasts to get the positive aromas and flavors from that strain and then inoculating with a cultured yeast to complete fermentation can work very well.
Good luck.
Daniel
Daniel.
I seem to be making so many mistakes or otherwise I am a slow learner.
I have added too much SO2.
Free 40 and total 90.
How do I fix this
Grapes have not started anything yet ( I have not innoculated yeast yet ) a,Ph and TA as well as VA are fine.
John
John,
I think all is ok. Free SO2 should be low enough by the time you get to MLF and total SO2 is below 100, so you’re fine. I personally add 25 mg/L of SO2 at crush, maybe more depending on the quality of the fruit.
So don’t worry.
Daniel
Hello Daniel,
I have used your online “Sulfite Calculator” winemaker tool for years and like the improvements in Version 2.
May I post the link to it on my website at “Eagles’ Nest” next to the link I have posted on your SO2 Benchmark Testers report?
Cheers…Tom Mincarelli
Hi Tom,
It won’t be a problem but you should get permission directly from WineMaker (email: wm@winemakermag.com) as it’s their tool/page. I helped with the development.
Cheers,
Daniel
Thanks for sharing this information. You can also check out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNXN3X8/
Hello Daniel,
I contacted Brad Ring and he said ok to post the online Sulfite Calculator link…done!
Thank you again….Cheers Tom
Perfect!
I recently made a batch of muscadine wine. After bottling we found a dusty precipitate in it a month later. Prior to bottling it was clear. Only thing I can think of is maybe they spent some time in a room that was sunny. Can anyone tell me how to remove it and prevent it in the future. Thanks for any help
If you bottled the wine fairly quickly after processing, the precipitate can result from high polyphenol content that has not been fined/filtered. The way to avoid it in the future is to fine/filter before bottling. Once in the bottle, you have to decant before serving. I assume that’s what you mean by “dusty” precipitate. There are other sources of precipitates but unlikely in your case since you don’t mention anything about the wine not being cloudy.
If you want to avoid fining/filtering, then you have to bulk-age the wine with a periodic racking, say, every 3 months.
Sunlight can be damaging to wine and cause oxidation phenomena known as light-strike reactions. But this would cause sulfur-like off-odors. You don’t mention any such problems. If the wine was in colored-glass carboy, then you are ok but it’s not ideal. Clear glass would not protect the wine. However, you have the high temperature that the wine was probably subjected to. All this will cause the wine to age fairly quickly.
Always age/store wine in a cool area away from light.
Your blog is really good.Thanks for sharing.
Hello Daniel
I made a batch of Cab Merlot from Niagara, which has completed malolactic fermentation. I verified using paper chromatography. The wine is about 6 months old and tastes a little “grapey”. Is it advise able to bottle and have the wine age in bottles or should I let it bulk age further.
Thanks in advance
Vince
Hi Vince,
This is a red, so it will benefit from bulk aging as it will throw some sediment regularly in its youth. You can rack every 3-6 months and then fine or filter before bottling if you bottle early. I don’t filter my reds when I age them for a long time (usually 3+ years). Another benefit is that you can monitor progress and make bulk adjustments before bottling. The wine goes through an amazing transformation in its first 6-24 months depending on your “elevage” regimen and wine chemistry.
Cheers,
Daniel
Thanks Daniel. I will probably choose to rack it this month and add finings, then bottle sometime in late May. I don’t have a constant temperature basement like I did in my previous house so I am keeping the wine in a built in garage. It’s great for cold stabilization but presents problems for long term bulk aging as the summer temperatures are extreme. So two questions:
1. Is it better to bulk age for another 6 months and let the wine go through the temperature variation while adjusting the volume for expansion and contraction or fine and bottle before the onset of the hot temperatures?
2. Is bentonite appropriate for this type of wine?
Cheers!
Vince
Vince,
Hot temps are really detrimental to quality. So my question is: Once bottled, do you move your wine to a cooler place?
You are putting in a hefty investment in time and money; it would be a shame to have temperature affect your investment. If the answer to my question is “yes,” then do fine AND filter and bottle.
For fining, you need to deal with tannins, and those are negatively charged, meaning you need a positively charged fining agent. Gelatin, Sparkolloid and chitin are good.
Daniel.
I have red wine in 1000 lit tanks, that has started MLF, about 10 %.
Is it advisable to stir up the leese in the bottom of the tank, to speed up the process. If so, how often.
John
John,
Best not to stir the lees during malo; lactic acid bacteria are sensitive to oxygen. Let it runs it course then add SO2. You can stir the lees during the maturation phase.
Daniel
Hi Daniel,
I am a home winemaker and have studied your “Techniques in Home Winemaking” and have questions about SO2.
With Viognier from Lodi, ph-4.0 and TA-.55 after acid an addition I would need >120 ppm free SO2. The wine tastes good. I added the calculated dose of KMBS and after a few months want to bottle it now. The Hanna SO2 analyzer results are Free SO2=22.8ppm and Total SO2=123 ppm.
1-At what point of free and total SO2 does it become detectable and what point unsafe?
2- what is the legal limit?
3-Should I add more SO2 to protect the wine at bottling?
Thanks,
Mark
Hi Mark,
You want to stay below 200 mg/L (ppm) total SO2 if possible. After that, you can taste it possibly. The legal limit is 350 mg/L total SO2.
Your pH is high and at high risk of microbial attack. My recommendation would be to add sulfite at 0.5 mg/L molecular SO2 (instead of 0.8), which gives you 80-90 mg/L free SO2 – this will keep total SO2 around 200-210 – and bottle immediately.
Daniel
Hello Daniel
I just racked my Cab/Merlot yesterday and I moved it from the garage into a warmer area inside. I will check progress of MLF but I am guessing that it isn’t 100% yet but close. The wine is a 60/40 blend of 2013 Ontario Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. I am happy with the structure of the wine and the colour is outstanding. It is a very sound but neutral wine. It doesn’t have any off odours or taste. The only problem is that it doesn’t have much flavour. There is a definite lack of fruit in this wine.
Am I rushing to conclusions and maybe the flavour will develop in the post MLF months? I didn’t add any oak chips. I found the results from a bench test disappointing. I didn’t get that nice round vanilla component, but rather more structure.
Also what are your thoughts on blending wines of different vintages? I was thinking of doing a Californian Petit Sirah this fall which has resulted in a very fruity wine for me in the past, and back blending.
As always, comments are greatly valued.
Vince
Hello Vince,
Every wine is different but reds do need a little time to open up. Some can take months, some years.
I always relate my story to friends about my 1999 Cab Sauv – my best wine ever.
The wine was nice but ok. I tasted it every 6 months and it was always ok — nothing less. nothing more. Always exactly on the third anniversary, the wine opened up like an explosion. Aromas and flavors galore!! Wow! A most amazing wine. I have only a 5-L bottle left that I’m guarding preciously. But I had my last 750-mL bottle maybe 6 months ago and it was still the same as in 2002 (i.e. 1999 + 3 years).
Only the wine chemistry and storage conditions dictate how your wine will evolve. So be patient. Time and patience will reward you.
You can try blending as you like; just do plenty of bench tests.
Good luck.
Daniel
Thanks Daniel. That’s encouraging. Is it better to allow the aging to occur in bottles or in bulk? How did you mature your 1999 Cab?
12 months in 55-L American oak barrel, then in demijohns. Racked every 6 months for 3 years. No fining, no filtration. (I’m not opposed to fining/filtration; I just decided to do this way with this wine.)
Hello Daniel,
Do you gently stir the Lees between racking …such as when adding SO2 or Tartaric Acid and how often do you test/adjust?
6 rackings total sounds like a lot to me.
I used to rack more but I find about 3-4 times maximum retains more color and flavor.
I do not use filters or fining for my reds.
Tom
No lees stirring. Kept SO2 around 30 mg/L. Only adjusted acidity at crush. Racking does not affect color, per se. You are racking what will ultimately sediment in the bottle. As for flavors, it is a matter of managing oxygen, so racking, yes, can affect flavors. My first few racking involved gentle splashing, then progressively gentler.
After MLF and with the Oak Barrel storage I find the pH climbs and that is why I adjust pH and SO2 all the way to bottling ..so far the results seem to be getting better year by year…and always more to try and learn…and enjoy.
Do you rack from Barrel to Glass DemiJohn with or without a pump? Is your barrel on a elevated rack to siphon without a pump?
What do you do with the barrel after one years use?
Is your pump wet or a dry vacum pump?
Cheers …Tom
Yes, it’s important to always maintain a nominal SO2 level, but I never adjust for acidity/pH following alcoholic/malolactic fermenation — there should be no need under normal winemaking conditions. But that’s for you to decide what works best for you.
I rack using a positive-displacement diaphragm pump. I put new wine into barrels as soon as I rack wine out.
Hi Daniel,
Long time follower of your blog…had a question for you in regards to fermentation.
As it’s offseason for grapes, I decided to try and make a blueberry wine, my first attempt a non-grape wine. The must was a bit odd chemistry-wise in that the pH was low (around 3.1), but the TA was only around .40. I’ve been taught (maybe incorrectly) to always adjust the must to the acid rather than to the pH, so I made the appropriate adjustments to raise the acid to around .55 (verified by testing). In my haste, I forgot to re-test the pH, so I am not sure what it was after the acid adjustment.
I am using Lalvin 71B, and rehydrated it first in some warm water for 20 minutes, then added half the starter volume in must for another 20 minutes. Before I pitched it, the starter was frothing vigorously. The must temp was 69 degrees, and the starter temp was 79, and the must temperature has remained steady since.
This was 48 hours ago, and I still have no signs of fermentation. I rechecked some of the must with my refractometer, and the brix is exactly the same as prior to yeast inoculation.
Any ideas on what may be causing the lag? I’ve used 71B before and it’s usually a pretty quick starter. I’m concerned that the low pH is affecting the yeast, but at this point, I’m not sure what to do about it?
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks…Ron
Hi Ron,
No worries.
It’s most important to adjust acidity to your taste; pH is only important to make sure it is not out of whack and not expose the wine to microbial spoilage. Just measure pH from here on and ensure it is in your desired range.
If you raised acidity by .15, your pH may have dropped by as much as .15, eg. from 3.45 down to 3.30, depending on the acid you added and the wine’s buffering capacity.
Unless the pH is really out of whack, it should not affect start of fermentation. I always recommend adding yeast nutrients to the inoculum, something like GO-FERM, and then supplement again at one-third Brix reduction.
Good luck.
Daniel
Add
Thanks Daniel.
So I guess the follow-up question is, what would you consider a pH that is “out of whack”? As I mentioned, the pH measured at 3.10 BEFORE I made the acid adjustment, so the pH is probably running below 3 at this point. I’m guessing this is most likely the main issue causing the lack of fermentation. For the record, I used acid blend, which I’ve read is most often used in fruit wines.
The bigger question is, if it is in fact the low pH causing this problem, is there anything I can do about it at this point? In hindsight, I guess it would have been better to make the acid adjustment after fermentation, when pH is likely to rise anyway. Just not sure if there is anything I can do at this point.
Apologies. I read to quickly and missed your pH value of 3.10.
pH is NOT the problem here. You need to add nutrients. There may be some inhibitory substances or conditions; I wouldn’t know what unless I test the wine, and it’s probably impossible for you to find out. And so, add nutrients to help the yeast fight those inhibitory conditions.
A low pH is actually best to fight microbes, so from that perspective, you’re ok.
Thanks Daniel. I will try that. I did use GoFerm when rehydrating the yeast with warm water, then added some of the must after 20 minutes, resulting in a good healthy starter. I generally add some Fermaid K once fermentation starts, but I’ll try to add some now to see if that helps.
Thanks, as always, for your help and quick response. Much appreciated!
Daniel.
I do have a decent smallish wine pump that does a proper job.
However I have been given a small water pump, half the size of a shoe box.in and outlet is 19 mm.
This could be handy if I was only working with smaller quantities of wine, like one barrel for instance.
Can I use this pump for wine. Could there be a problem with the speed of the umpellar if maybe too fast. Could there be a problem with material.
seems the housing is cast iron and umpellar PP, whatever that is.
Regards.
John.
I would obviously wash and disinfect thoroughly
Hi John,
You need to make sure that the impeller and anything that wine comes in contact with are food grade. You should be able to get this information from the manufacturer’s website if you have the model number.
The issue with pump “speed” is the uptake of oxygen – the faster the pumping action, the greater the amount of oxygen the wine absorb. You can fit the pump with a speed controller – easy enough.
Daniel
Hello Daniel,
I am going to pickup a small amount some Chiliean Malbec and Merlot grapes today. I intend to cold soak them for 24-78 hrs. prior to crushing and adding pectic enzyme then yeast as the temperature rises. I will be pulling the grapes off the stems carefully by hand today to try to not puncture them.
Do you recommend washing the grapes before de stemming to remove excess chemicals or contaminants that may be on the surface of the grapes and stems from the long journey from Chile and truck ride from New York to North Carolina ?
I usually crush and de stem with a machine in the fall but with this small amount this time will be different.
Thank you again for your advice!
Cheers…Tom
Hi Tom,
No, I don’t.
A lot of water will remain on the grape bunches and stems, which means your must will get diluted. It’s more than you think. The contaminants – which should not be a concern – will also get picked up by the water, so you’ll never rid of all them.
Good luck.
Daniel